Prior to traveling to Rwanda in March my only knowledge of the East African country was through the lens of the film Hotel Rwanda. I watched it by myself (bad idea) in college and wept immediately afterwards. It evoked so many emotions and questions about how humanitarian disasters happen, who ignores them, and how people repair in their wake. But, in my love for Africa, Tanzania and Kenya seemed to eclipse my ponderings about Rwanda.
Then, after college my dear friend moved to the country to work with arts activism and organizing around rebuilding in the years following the genocide. I was amazed at the work that the organization Masharika was doing in Kigali with local youth and arts activism. When I found an amazing flight deal for spring break, I chatted my friend and she graciously offered to host me for the week.
16 hours later I arrived in Kigali (pronounced ch-ee-ga-li) if you want any street cred. We taxi’d to her house through innumerable twists and turns, I changed clothes and we hit the bar. Beirut Bar and Restaurant is a cozy place in Kiyovu with a full line of shisha and brouchettes (amazing meat skewers), karokee, and plenty of beer. We sat, we sang, and we wined until my jet lag caught up with me and it was time for bed.
Lake Kivu and Gisenyi
Whenever I travel as much as I love visiting cities, pub hopping, and exploring museums- a retreat in nature is always filled with reflection and leaves me with a deeper sense of gratitude. The two days spent in Gisenyi in Western Rwanda fulfilled my nature-quota so to speak. Gisenyi is about a three hour bus ride from the capital Kigali and it was a smooth ride through the twists and turns of the Rwandan countryside until we reached Rukavu Town. Known for the beautiful Lake Kivu which borders the Congolese town- Goma; Gisenyi was truly a site. We met with some good friends after the late bus in and scarfed down some fries at the Bikini Tam Tam which sits right on the lake. Plenty of ‘UG’ or Uganda Waragi was flowing, good conversations, and plenty of jams. When we tired of the jam we hitchhiked with a kind and random stranger and made it to the house we were renting for the weekend.
Kigali Public Library
The Kigali Public Library is by far one of the cutest and coziest spots in Kigali to get work done and take in the rolling hills of Rwanda. We visited on my second to last day and at this point I was feeling tonsilitis so badly all I could have was some mango juice, but the views made up for it. The library hosts art installations and is close to a school that frequents it for field trips- when we visited there were some antsy primary students in one of the exhibit halls. The library is also known for its famous kitenge cloth wall that separates the exhibit hall from the outside lounge space.
Pili Pili Restaurant
While, I only spent a week in Rwanda- it forced me to make a serious decision. I felt so comfortable there with an old friend and a seemingly familiar land. Everything reminded me of why I chose to live in East Africa to begin with. And while, I cried when boarding the plane I also had a serious conversation with myself about what I truly desired. When I inhaled deeply and set my eyes on Kigali for the last time I made myself a promise. The next time I would return to Africa it would not be for merely a week on holiday, but for months or years to live. This powerful promise manifested in my award of a Fulbright grant just a month later. I cried when I thought back to how when I let go of fears and ‘what-ifs’ and speak my desires-I will be heard. So, while Kenya is not Tanzania and Rwanda is not Kenya, Africa is home and when I return in January- I will be returning home.
Cheers,
Mariah
mariahgoesabroad 